🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. However, tucked near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.