Kebabs, Aromatic Biryani and a World More: A Historic Indian City Gains Recognition on the UNESCO Gastronomy List.
Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.